Uşak Archaeology Museum: Home to the Returned Karun Treasure
The small Aegean town of Uşak is home to one of Turkey’s most dramatic archaeological collections—the Karun Treasure, or the Lydian Treasure. These 363 artifacts belonging to the Lydian nobility of the 7th century BCE were illegally excavated in 1966, smuggled to the United States, and displayed in the Metropolitan Museum’s collection for nearly three decades until an investigation by a Turkish journalist brought them home. Today, the treasure is on display at the Uşak Archaeology Museum—the primary testament to the wealth of King Croesus’s world and the complex fate of archaeological heritage in the 20th century.
History of the Museum
The museum opened on May 23, 1970, and was conceived as a regional center for the preservation of artifacts from Western Anatolia—the territory where the Lydian Kingdom, with its capital at Sardis, once flourished. The collection spans the period from the Bronze Age to Roman times and includes materials from numerous excavations in the province of Uşak and neighboring regions.
The museum owes its fame to the Karun Treasure—a hoard discovered in 1966 by farmers in a burial mound near the village of Güre in the province of Uşak. Artifacts from the burial of a noble Lydian woman were secretly removed and sold to dealers; and a few years later, they ended up in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. In 1984, Turkish journalist Özgen Acar discovered them in the museum’s catalog and sparked an international scandal. After years of legal proceedings, the collection was returned to Turkey in 1993 and transferred to the Uşak Archaeology Museum.
The Collection and What to See
Karun Hazinesi (Lydian Treasure)
The museum’s main hall is dedicated to the 363 items of the Karun Treasure: gold jewelry, silver vessels, ritual objects, and fragments of woven garments with gold embroidery. These items date to the 7th century BCE, the heyday of the Lydian Kingdom, and come from several burial mounds in the Güre region. In terms of richness and artistic quality, this collection is comparable to the finest examples of ancient jewelry art from Asia Minor.
The Story of the Return
A separate exhibition section tells the story of the theft, the discovery of the collection at the Metropolitan Museum, and the legal proceedings. This is a rare instance where a museum openly addresses the criminal history of its exhibits—while simultaneously offering a lesson on the responsibility of collectors and major museum institutions.
The 2006 Theft and the Hippocampus Brooch
In 2006, it was discovered that two items from the collection—a coin and a gold brooch in the shape of a hippocampus (winged seahorse)—had been replaced with forgeries. The museum director, Kazım Akbıyıkoğlu, confessed to the theft, attributing the crime to gambling debts; he received a 13-year sentence. The brooch was successfully returned to Turkey in November 2012; it was exhibited in Ankara for a time, then returned to Uşak.
Archaeology of the Region: Blaundus and Other Sites
In addition to the Karun Treasure, the museum features sculptures, spouted jugs, stone axes, Hellenistic glassware, Roman tableware, and stelae from the ancient city of Blaundus. This provides an insight into the province’s archaeological diversity, which is significantly broader than the Lydian theme alone.
The Bronze and Iron Ages
The section on prehistoric finds includes stone tools, early bronze artifacts, and pottery. Although they are less spectacular than the Lydian hoard, without these exhibits it is impossible to understand the foundations upon which Lydian civilization grew.
Interesting Facts
- The Lydian Kingdom, with its capital at Sardis, is considered the birthplace of the world’s first regularly minted coins—gold electrum staters from the 7th century BCE; this is the origin of the expression “rich as Croesus.”
- The return of the Karun Hazinesi from the Metropolitan Museum in 1993 became one of the first high-profile precedents for the restitution of archaeological treasures—it influenced international rules governing the trade in antiquities.
- Journalist Özgen Acar, who exposed the treasure’s presence in New York, gained international recognition and became a key figure in the fight against the smuggling of cultural artifacts from Turkey.
- The theft of the hippocampus brooch in 2006 became one of the most high-profile scandals in the history of Turkish museums and led to a major overhaul of the collection security system.
- The ancient city of Blaundus is located about 40 km from Uşak; finds from there constitute a separate and less publicized section of the exhibition.
How to get there
The museum is located in the center of Uşak, Uşak Province, in the Aegean region. The nearest airport is Uşak Havalimanı (USQ), but there are few flights from there; it is often more convenient to fly to İzmir (ADB) or Denizli (DNZ) and travel by bus or train. A direct bus from İzmir takes about 4–5 hours, and from Denizli, about 2 hours.
In Uşak itself, it takes 10 minutes by taxi or city bus from the bus station to the city center. The museum is located within walking distance of the city’s main street. GPS coordinates: 38.6742° N, 29.4034° E.
Tips for travelers
Allow about two hours to explore the Karun Treasure and the accompanying exhibits. The main hall deserves a careful look: each item tells a unique story, and the label texts provide detailed explanations of the context of the finds and the circumstances surrounding the collection’s return.
It’s convenient to combine your visit with a trip to Sardis (about 100 km west of Uşak)—the capital of the Lydian Kingdom, where many of the region’s archaeological artifacts originate. Also worth visiting are the ancient city of Blaundus and the thermal springs of Hierapolis in Pamukkale, located in the neighboring province.
Photography of gold objects is usually restricted; check the rules on site. It’s best to check prices and hours in advance—the museum isn’t very large, and its operating hours sometimes change. For anyone interested not only in archaeology but also in the fate of cultural artifacts in the 20th century, the Uşak Archaeology Museum offers a rare blend of antiquity and modern drama.